Chuck the Truck's 52 Chevy - Fuse Block & Vent Window

Surreal isn't it? Actually what you're looking at is the "tweak" I had to make to the floor pan/toe board joint to clear the clutch pedal arm. Recall I put the floor pans too far forward? The arm was banging the joint here. It looks pretty chewed up, but it is just hammered back. Show truck, this would never do. A little touch up paint and it's fine for a driver, but I learned for next time.

I picked up a Painless wiring fuse box on Ebay. I contemplated modifying it so I could access the leads (the ones toward the firewall) without dropping the box, but finally decided to use it as is. Thought of many locations for mounting, but LH kick panel seemed best. It's up high so it doesn't show when I'm in the driver's seat, but I can still swap fuses easy enough.

Another first for me - replacing the glass in the vent windows. For the glass to channel seal, I used automatic transmission fluid (the book called for straight 10W, but I grabbed what was handy). Seems odd using oil, but it did work. The glass and gasket were a tight fit. Brjr51 told me how he watched a glass man bang them in with a rubber mallet, so I did and it worked. However, during installation, I found that I drove them in too far. The back edge of the glass should be flush with the ends of the metal frame. Recessed, it won't seal on the weatherstrip. A few taps corrected it.
The fuzzy has to go into the frame (riveted) before the thick weatherstrip. I used the Chevy Duty rivet setting tool and it is nothing fancy - a small cone in the center of a cup. I got the best crimp using by bench vise to squeeze the rivet/tool. The swinging press (hammer) was inconsistent.
It took lots of soapy water and finesse to get the weatherstrip into the frame. There is a locating boss on the weatherstrip and corresponding hole in the frame (about three inches from the top end) that was tricky to align. Also, my bag of old parts had various washers for assembly of vent window to frame and I forgot the order. It was all together and riveted when I discovered that one of the "double d" washers has to go above the flange that the tension spring rides against. Without it, the tension spring just pulls the vent window down in the frame and it won't open or close. Ground the rivets out and did it over. See drawing - the upper washer is the critical one.

Surely you expect this by now. Great shot of the vent window installed; side window glass is in, but down in this shot.. After both sides were done, I looked at my pile of parts in the family room and found the "umbrellas." DOH! They go in before the vents, so out they came (actually only unbolted and tilted out of the way) and the umbrellas went in.

In the shot on the right you can see the division bar channel. I got that weatherstrip for it from ChevyDuty but it was no good. It may have been improperly cured, but the first time I rolled the window down the fuzzy stuff and gummy black rubber all balled up in the channel, binding the window. I made several attempts to remedy it that did no good. I posted on Stovebolt and got a good tip - use Velcro. I got a roll of 2" wide heavy duty stuff at the hardware store. Scraped the old stuff out only from the lower half, formed the fuzzy from the Velcro around a bit of 1/4" Masonite, then slit the backing vertically down the middle. I pushed the Velcro and Masonite into the channel, then carefully peeled the two backing pieces off. Trimmed the excess, then reinstalled. One thing I learned - roll the window both up and down with the bolts a hair loose and the divider bar aligns itself nicely. Tightened them up and we had success. The windows worked great. Thanks 56Picup.
11/04 The Velcro lasted six months before it peeled loose, balled up, and bound the window. I took it out, leaving only the original upper portion. It works just fine - snug when the window is up and no rattles that I can hear when it's down.