Chuck the Truck's 52 Chevy - Trans & Shifter Assy

I finally found the trans I was looking for. After losing several Ebay auctions, I bought an S10 T5 just in case I couldn't find a New Process. I had the T5 for a week when this appeared; a rebuilt NP A833 type from 81-86 GM trucks (aka 89mm or MY-6). It is a 4 speed overdrive (3.09 first, 1.67 2nd 1:1 third, .73:1 fourth -- thanks Racecarl) with a GM bolt pattern and input. Some GMs used the Chrysler bolt pattern on a modified bellhousing, and I believe there was even a 3rd odd pattern. These transmissions are scarce; I didn't want a rebuilt but it was available so I used "Buy It Now", paid more than I was planning, but got the trans, bellhousing, and Hurst shifter.

I learned recently, from the fine folks at Stovebolt, that the 3-4 arm (furthest forward) is upside down in this shot. I verified it and have now flipped it so it points down, not up.

Here you can see the GM ears, cast in as an afterthought. The original Chrysler pattern was on the tall narrow rectangle. The lower bolt, driver's side, has to be a stud with the nut started as the trans is sliding home since it has only 3/4" clearance to the side cover.

Checking the fit. I had modified the floor pan to get the engine and 700R4 up as high as possible. This has a little more room. Don't laugh at my seam sealer job - it's underneath and will be covered with road grime soon enough. I'm still debating undercoating, but if I do it'll look a lot better.

[Bedliner! Wonderful stuff! And be sure to soak the pilot bushing in motor oil for a day or more before installing it. I had to pull it all down after a year to replace a noisy pilot bushing. Thay can dry out sitting in that drawer at the parts store. Cheap insurance.]

I cut the heads off a pair of 6" bolts for guide pins when installing the trans. Ready to slide the trans in, I found two problems: The drivers side stud wouldn't clear the top of the case so I moved it to right side lower, and I've got to install the fork and throwout bearing BEFORE bolting up the bellhousing. Weak memory - I haven't done a clutch in ten years.

Fork & TO bearing in, still have to move the guide pin.

Trans installed. I had to move the crossmember forward from the spot I had it for the 700R4. Just above and to the right of the speedo drive, you can see the shifter mounting bracket. I cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, then decided I wanted it further forward (Mr. Backwards, hard at work). It was right in front of the seat.

Using 2" x 1/8" angle iron, I fabbed this mount to move the shifter forward, up, and to cant it slightly to the passenger side. It attaches at 4 points - the 3 in the rear and to one of the extension housing mounting bolts. The perpendicular flange for the latter does not show in these pics, but it is right under the nut at the leading edge.

[11/04 Fought vibration at 60mph + for quite a while. Finally put 1/4" shims between the trans mount and x-member, effectively altering the pinion angle without touching the rear. Wow - it's smooth now! Next time I'll measure better before mounting the x-member.]

You can see the original hole here and how much space I gained. Hurst does make curvy sticks that might have cleared the seat, but this worked well. Plenty of clearance to the seat and dash. Notice the shifter is offset to the drivers side, so the angle puts the shifter straight up for 1-2 so it's not banging my leg

Factory Hurst shifters don't use a bolted stick. They have a spring clip arrangement to retain the stick that can be a pain in the dupa if you haven't seen how it goes together. You have to use a thin bit of steel (screwdriver, steel rule, whatever) to depress the barb on the clip (both sides). Once done, the stick slides out easily.
I used a Hurst 373 4089 installation kit for B body Mopar. The rods needed slight bending; the reverse rod I used a 3/8 Heim joint at the shifter. I forget why, but it solved some problem. The kit came with a 1/2" thick spacer plate that I wasn't going to use (didn't want it offset any more than it was) but I quickly found out that the hole in the spacer provided clearance for a pin that protrudes when the shifter is moved to reverse. No hole = no reverse. It went in.

I told my sixteen-year-old daughter nothing newer than 1972 for her first car. She had a 68-72 Chevelle SS as her first choice, this is her second. Sleek lines, good performance, nimble handling, and good gas milage; the Corvair got an unfair rap. I also wanted to make sure she learned to drive a stick, so this is a four-speed. We have to put the trim on and do a few odds and ends, but it is in very good shape. I've owned four of them, so it is nothing new to me.

Want to see how it looks with the trim and all?