Chuck the Truck's 52 Chevy - Cab Assy

OK, let's get started hanging this sheet metal. OOPS - should have read the manual first. I should have bolted the inner and outer fenders together first, then mounted them to the cab.

Ok, this is better. I'm trying the fender welt, even though I don't think it's original. Looks good so far, but if I decide I don't like it, it's pretty easy to remove. When I got the truck this joint was sealed with bathtub caulk, due to the rust.

Getting there.

I didn't fix that rotted portion in the driver's headlamp mount, realized my error as I was bolting in the buckets. A clip nut went there. Ahhhh, it'll work. You can also see where the passenger side inner fender got whacked. It's oil-canned and I could have spent more time fixing it, but it isn't going to show. I'm really not fond of body work, despite the extent of this project.

The doors went on easily. I mounted the hinges to the frame (I don't think you can do it any other way) then the door to the hinge. Those hinges are a tight fit into the post, even after jockeying for the best angles. I don't think they can go in without scraping, but if you know the trick, let me know and I'll throw the answer in here.
Hey, I can see myself!

This is the side where I rebuilt the post. I'm pleased that the door fits so nicely; I guess I got the post right. I didn't bother with masking tape on the edges while aligning. I just went slowly and carefully and it worked.
I should have put the door weatherstrip on BEFORE hanging the door. The gap on the hinge side looked roomy enough to slide the weatherstrip in, until I had the weatherstrip adhesive on. Funny how a little glue is like new paint; the parts get bigger. I was shocked at how much the door alignment changed with the gasket in. Before readjusting it, I clamped the door closed at the bottom with my welding ViseGrips and let it sit when I'm not working on it. It's been two weeks now and the gasket is settling in nicely. I'll only need to tweak the alignment.

Famous last words! Durn doors still won't align and that's bugging me. I think its the weatherstrip since they were fine without it. A small block of wood (a piece of 3/4" oak) just above the latch and a healthy shove at the bottom got 'em closer but still not right. I'll keep trying.

I chose to keep the original steering wheel and column. I cut the column off at the box and decided to use an upper mast bearing on the lower end as well. This required opening up the ID of the tube. I'm a "make do" person, and since I don't have a machine shop (heck, I don't even have a drill press yet) I used a 1-5/8" hole saw left over from some other job. Put a bevel on the mouth with a Dremel so the saw would start and just went slow and easy. Cleaned it up with the Dremel, and the bearing went in fine.

I cut the steering shaft to length then used a pair of flat washers and a bronze thrust washer to handle the axial load. The upper joint I drilled and thru bolted to the steering shaft to make future disassembly easier. I have just the stock column support on the lower end inside, but I'm going add a support on the outside, after reading good advice on the Stovebolt page.

[06/06 Never did get around to adding a support at the firewall. It's working fine.]