Chuck the Truck's 52 Chevy - Gas Sender, Powertrax

The gas sender didn't read right. Instead of 0-30 ohms, it was 0-infinity and flaky-no consistency. With nothing to lose, I popped the cover off the resistor and found a broken tab of brass. The resistor checked out, and I did a little ciphering to determine that the brass tab was a ground to the pivot arm. No easy way to fix that, but I sucessfully used a bit of MIG wire, coiled like a spring, and soldered to the arm and the base. It works now - if it fails then I'll change it. The spring barely shows in this pic, in the crook of the "V".

[06/06 and 33,000 miles later it still reads perfectly. I did have a bit of a seepage problem around the sender - after I replaced the gas cap I lost. Hylomar by Permatex worked for while, but the seepage (read smell) came back. A bit of investigation revealed the spring loaded vent in the cap was stuck. Put the original back on (it was in my coveralls), new gasket with Hylomar, and problem gone. Also now is the time to add a return line for for a full return fuel system ]

The gas tank was in good shape, little rust, so I just sprayed it with ZeroRust on the outside.
It went in ... the seat could go in. I need to set the steering column in the right place before I can hook up the steering. The sitting, dreaming, and making all the right truck sounds was just a fringe benefit. Even took the missus for a "ride." I eliminated the upper half of the column clamp. The column is sandwiched between the lower half and the dash. Gave me just enough extra knee room so getting in and out is no problem.

Plumbed the brakes after test fitting the inner fenders. My favorite parts store, Master Auto in Frankfort IL (815-469-1212 for you locals), supplied the brake hoses. Of course they rib me about my "Johnny Cash" truck - It's a 52-66-79-82-85 Chevy. And I'm not through yet.

The ring and pinion in the Camaro rear looked good, but the spider gears were poor. I had just thrown the cover on, not to worry, but had second thoughts. This is the Powertrax No Slip differential that I got through National Drivetrain after Master's supply house couldn't come up with one.

Not much to it - I like simple.

If you are going into the rear end for anything (axles and bearings at 30000 miles) order a spring kit for the Powertrax first. Mine had two broken springs that never manifested themselves in a change in performance, but I sure wasn't going to button it back with broken parts. I was down for a couple days.

This is the stock setup. The lockbolt came out without breaking. If I was thinking, I would have gotten a new one from Chevy in advance, but it was OK.

The empty carrier. The best part about the Powertrax is not having to mess with the ring & pinion settings. The instructions were clear and simple. Nothing difficult, no special tools.

The old parts. The spiders were badly pitted but the photo doesn't show it very well.

The Powertrax installed in an hour. I still haven't welded the spring seats, so I was able to point the pinion down and do the job from on top without losing any of my new gear oil. It would have taken a little longer on my back, but not much. I'm pleased with the ease of installation. With the trans and driveshaft are installed, I finally got a chance to test the action of the Powertrax. The directions say that with one wheel rotated against the trans in gear, the other wheel supposed to freewheel in the opposite direction. I tried and tried but mine wouldn't freewheel, even though I was certain I had installed it correctly. Sent a note to Powertrax and this is their reply:

Thank you for purchasing a Powertrax locking differential. The instructions are a little vague as to how to make the wheel spin freely. The other wheel has to be forced into disengagement then it spins freely. The procedure is as follows: First, put the transmission in gear. Second, rotate one of the tires forward and hold it against the driveline. Then, while holding that side, another person has to force the other tire in the opposite direction. It take quite a bit of torque to break it free. The grease does add to the difficulty. After trying a couple of times, if it still does not disengage then use a screw driver to assist with the disengagement.

Sounds like time to rewrite the instructions.